Any grooming supplies mentioned on this page or in the video such as Holistic Shampoos and Ear cleaner can be purchased from Helthypetnet. Or you can call in your order at the number and code below.To order this ear cleanser go online to: Helthy petnet .or call: 1-877-387-4564 Use order code: 20060754 ….
Repeated head shaking. Foul-smelling, waxy build-up. Red, painfully inflamed ears. What do all these things have in common? All are symptoms of otitis externa, or what is commonly referred to as ear infections. If you have ever groaned inwardly and felt dismay the moment your dog starts shaking his head or rubbing his ears along the nearest available surface, you’re not alone. Unfortunately, too many pet parents are more than familiar with this recurring medical problem. Often, it is accompanied by an offensive odor and one can only imagine how overwhelming the smell is to the suffering pup! Canine ear infections result from an overgrowth of yeast or bacteria in the ear canal, causing redness, irritation and a heavy accumulation of wax. Likely triggers of these maladies are skin reactions to inhaled allergens – like pollen, mold or dust mites – or food allergies and sensitivities. Be aware that both large ears and swimming predispose dogs to ear infections. Humans tend to develop ear infections as a result of viral infections, typically in infancy or early youth. As youngsters, our Eustachian tubes are very small. Respiratory congestion can lead to blockage of these canals, resulting in otitis media (a middle ear infection). Because the infection is internal, they frequently require oral antibiotics. In contrast, pets usually develop ear infections as adults, and the infection is almost always localized in the external portion of the ear. In most cases, the application of prescription drops or ointments directly into the ear canal usually resolves the illness. If you suspect your companion animal may be suffering from an ear infection, please seek veterinarian assistance for diagnosis and treatment. If necessary, your vet may prescribe a topical medicine and advise routine cleaning.
Poodle, Cockapoo, Cavapoo & Other Poo Mix Grooming
Things You’ll Need: Cotton balls, Dog shampoo, Towel, Blow dryer, (Optional), Comb, Slicker Brush, Cotton Swabs, Scissors, Dog nail trimmer, Nail file. Also keep baking soda on hand just in-case you cut the nails to short and they start to bleed. Baking soda helps the bleeding stop and the pain. Tweezers to pluck any hairs out of ears. Begin checking your poodle / poomix’s hair for mats. These are sections of hair that have knotted up. They may get a mat if you let their hair grow long… Comb and brush out any mats. You will need both tools to work out the knots. Take your time and do this carefully so that you don’t hurt your dog. First spray detangler such as the detangler/conditioner provided by healthy petnet on the mat. Use the comb to start working the mat out from the bottom. Slowly work your way up. Never try to brush right through the mat. Once you get the mat out with the comb, you can brush the area. Make sure you do this once per week so that you don’t have so many mats that you can’t get them out. Fill your bathtub with water that goes up to your dog’s knees. Use a dog shampoo from : healthy petnet and give your dog a bath. Only use flea shampoo if needed and never more than once a month. Use the gentle shampoo at: healthy petnet for weekly baths. Be careful not to get any soap in the dogs eyes. Rinse the soap out of the dog’s fur and dry him off with a towel. Bathing should be done once a week. Use the cotton swabs to clean out any wax buildup. You will also need to check for any hairs that may have gotten in the ears and remove them. It is best just to pluck them out. Just be careful you don’t stick the cotton swab to far in to the dog’s ears. Then use the ear cleaner stated at the top of this page in the video…Trim the dog’s hair once per month. If you want the dog’s hair to stay long, make sure you keep at least 2 inches of hair flowing off of your pup. If you take your dog to a groomer, make sure you instruct them not to shave your dog, unless you want to have a shorter coat on him/her. Trim hair away from your dog’s ears and eyes, but keep your “cockapoo’s” mustache and goatee intact and at full length unless you want a Cockapoo with a different look, keep round features if you want a teddy bear look, or shave completly if you want a more clean shaved Poodle look… There are products available to help remove tearing stains, one in particular is called Angel Eyes, which is a food additive and has very good customer feedback. Finally, you need to trim your dog’s nails. This is done with a dog nail trimmer, which you can purchase at any pet store. Place the nail trimmer under the dog’s nails, watching for where you see pink. Pink is the dogs blood vessels ,and you do not want to cut these. Squeeze the nail trimmers without twisting. Move on to the next nail until they are all trimmed. Don’t forget to make sure you get the dew claw if your pup still has that nail to. File your dog’s nails with a nail file if you think they are too sharp after trimming. Keep the teeth cleaned well with doggy tooth brush and doggy tooth paste. You may also decide to get the teeth professionally cleaned by your vet yearly which is highly recommended in toy size breeds which are prone to tooth decay because they do not chew as well as bigger breeds. You may also find your small breed pup may need some puppy teeth removed if they are still hanging on in adolescents which is common since again they just do not chew as well as bigger breeds.
Giant Schnauzer Grooming: Things You’ll Need: Cotton balls, Dog shampoo, Towel, Blow dryer- (NEEDED), Comb, Brush, Cotton Swabs, Scissors, Dog nail trimmer, Nail file. Good pair of Clippers if you are clipping the hair with a # 10 or a #7 blade, and attachments for body longer length cutting. Also keep baking soda on hand just encase you cut the nails to short and they start to bleed. Baking soda helps the bleeding stop and the pain. tweezers to pluck any hair out of ears. Unlike most dog breeds, Schnauzers are low to no shedding. While that means there will not be fur coating the living room couch, it also means routine grooming is important to a Schnauzer’s well-being. Unkempt hair will become knotted, matted and uncomfortable for your pet. Many owners decide to send their Schnauzers to professional groomers because of the skill and time involved. Other owners, however, attempt to do the task themselves. There are a plethora Schnauzer styles out there. Some owners intend to enter their Schnauzer as a show dog in competitions, while others keep them as regular pets. The following tips apply to all types of Schnauzers: Giant, standard, miniature, and toy.
1.Bathe your dog in room-temperature water in either a bathtub or large plastic tub. To prevent slipping, a rubber mat can be used. Use dog shampoo, which can be purchased at healthy petnet. Don’t forget to also clean out the ears with the ear cleaner talked about in the video above and clean out eyes with a gentle rinse in the tub or wipe with a wet damp cloth. You may also need to pluck out any hair growing in the ears to keep it clean and dry in them. Once the dog has been thoroughly cleaned, dry him off with a towel and hair dryer. Simultaneously brush the dog’s coat and comb the hair.
2.Clip your Schnauzer. The process starts with the dog’s head. A No. 7 or 10 head can be used on the clippers or, alternatively, a pair of sheered scissors. When clipping I use a Oster Golden A5… If the clipper blades start to get hot turn them off for a while so you do not end up burning your pets skin. You can always stop and finish the clipping in 2 or 3 sessions… A Schnauzer should have hair on the face, brow and a goaty beard so be sure not to remove much hair from the face.
3.Trim the dog’s hair between the eyes in a inverted V so your dog can see but stay away from the rest of the face and brows. You want to cut those with sheers.
4. Shave his front legs in a downward direction to the length you want. It is pretty much a Cocker cut and a skirt is left as well as hair on the legs, but the back and top of head is shaved short.
5. Be sure to check the toenails and clip or trim when necessary. This is done with a dog nail trimmer, which you can purchase at any pet store. Place the nail trimmer under the dog’s nails, watching for where you see pink. Pink is the dogs blood vessels ,and you do not want to cut these. In dark dogs you may not see the pink so just cut the point off the nail and after a week do it again to get to the desired length. Squeeze the nail trimmers without twisting. Move on to the next nail until they are all trimmed. File your dog’s nails with a nail file if you think they are too sharp after trimming. Don’t forget to make sure you get the dew claw if your pup still has that nail to. Keeping your dogs nails short helps prevent any deformities associated with their paws.
6. Lastly, all dog grooming should include brushing their teeth using dog toothbrush and dog dental products on an every other day.
On Schnauzers and Scnoodles as they grow into teenagers from 5 mths to a year of age their coat may appear thin, this is just your puppy loosing his puppy coat, as an adult his coat will come it thick. Nothing to worry about at all.
UPDATE 11-9-14: I have recently been able to try out the ear taping kit made by Hoytt. It is called Quick Brace and it is really nice. I tried it on a couple older pups and it was much less bulky and easier to set then the posting explained below on this page. I would highly recommend this ear posting quick brace system to everyone. It doesn’t work for all pups though, some get it pulled off pretty quickly. Here is a link to their site if you want to try their system but keep in mind you will be leaving my site so bookmark us now so You can come back to our site. Here is the Quick Brace site address: http://www.hoytt.com/ears/
Ears! : On docked ears you will need to tape the ears for a while until the the cartilage grows to the desired form. The training might be as short as one month post cropping or as long as one year. No one can tell you how long taping is going to take, every pup is different. If you do not believe you have time in your daily schedule to re-apply lost ear supports than I suggest that you consider a puppy with natural ears. The goal is to leave supports in place for 5 to 7 days, remove the supports and glue and allow the ears to air out for 1 day and then re-apply supports. This schedule should be kept up until the ears are standing correctly by themselves. After the puppy turns 4 ½ months old the ears may stand correctly for a longer period of time. Allow them to stand as long as possible on their own, if they begin to tip or fall you will again apply the ear training for 5 -7 days. Repeat as necessary. You may find that your dog’s ears have stood perfectly for several months, only to droop again at around 6-8 months old. Molars are probably beginning to erupt which can affect the sinus cavity and ear canals. If this happens, you will need to support the ears again using the same methods as you used previously. Sports tape and duct tape are our personal preference. I must emphasize the importance of NEVER pulling any tape or material tightly around the ear-NEVER, EVER! What happens when you cut off the normal blood flow to an appendage? You really don’t want to find out! NEVER EVER stretch your tape or pull your tape when wrapping. Our photos show our method of pinching the tape to form a snug fit, this method will not restrict the blood flow to the top of the ear if done correctly. Below is how I do this and you are welcome to call me anytime if you want me to walk you through it. If you are local I can do it for you in person. You can go to the following video I found that has a good procedures for ear taping. The only difference is that we use bond glue and tape the ears more…. We also use a popsicle stick to connect the posted ears together in the H shape
IF YOUR PUP STILL HAS EARS HEALING FROM EAR CROPPING: Do not leave tape wrapped around any scabs or healing skin. Do not put glue on any sutures or healing skin. You can use the glue and tape but just make sure the glue does not get on the healing edge. Tape: You can cut the edge of the tape off of healing skin once glue dries in about an hour. This way the healing edge can be open to the air. You can also choose to leave tape on but have gauze between the tape and the healing skin to protect the healing tissue from the adhesive and to absorb natural moisture. If ears are still healing then ears have to be posted more often so the healing edge does not get infected. Every 3 to 4 days is sufficient and sooner if it gets wet. Moisture can cause infection. after sutures are removed you can help loosen scabs my soaking in water and breaking apart a little at a time with your nails. Do not pull scabs that are not soaked first or that are very deep or you will pull healthy tissue along with it and create a indention in the ear. You should massage the ears daily and massage real well in between postings as well as pulling the edge while massaging to help the edge looking its best.
You will need: One 4oz can of Tobolt skin bonding glue, (can buy glue on ebay.com), One roll of 1.5″ sports tape, 1 roll of 1/2″ medical tape, One package of 5/8″ foam tubing caulk saver, (kind for windows), One roll of duct tape, 1 pack of foam sheet paper, (in the craft isle), popsicle sticks, and One bottle of skin safe glue dis-solvent such as Dissolve It or Goo Gone.
step 1: Cut foam tubing to length of ear and then wrap with sports tape. You can cut it a little long and cut away extra when all finished if desired. Your post is done unless you need to pop out the bases. For this you roll 1″strips of the foam sheet paper over the point where you want the bulge to be so that it pops the bases out. Tape over the bulge. This is needed if you notice the ear wanting to bend when post is put on. You want the skin to lie snug against the post so that is where you may need to add the bulge, (foam sheet paper strips), if needed. Usually the bulge will be 1/2″ from base of post and that still allows the base of the post to fit in the ear canal nicely. The bulge is not needed most of the time….
step 2: Before this step line all of inner ear and one side of foam tubing with bonding glue. Then place tube in ear and tape the base, being careful not to make tape to tight that it cuts off the circulation. Make sure that the ear skin is wrapped nicely around the tube without being bent at all.